Last night I got started riveting the first parts of the horizontal stabilizer together. I used the pneumatic squeezer for most of it but had to use the rivet gun for some of the rivets. The rivets I did with the gun are not perfect, but I think they turned out fairly good. At the end of the night I had an assembly that looked like this:
In the weeks before this I spent a lot of time countersinking all of the holes in the spars and stringers and then priming everything. The single flute cutter I ordered worked really well right up until it broke so I switched back to the 3-flute cutter I had been using. A common issue people have with the 3-flute cutter is that it chatters in the hole and creates a bunch of small ridges in the countersink. I found that using my electric drill on the slow speed setting seemed to prevent this from happening, and also helped me avoid having the bit cut sideways through the hole.
I broke up the priming into two sessions. I primed the skins during the first session and everything else on second. The second session turned out do be my longest priming session to date. Even with Meggin’s help prepping the parts for primer it was close to a 6 hour session. I wasn’t sure we removed all of the residue from etching the parts so we decided to go back and clean everything again so that added a lot of time, plus I was using a new spray gun that I had to learn how to use first.
I’ve finished dimpling all of the HS ribs. I started using the 1-inch Scotch-Brite light deburring wheel in a cordless drill to finish off the deburring of the holes in the ribs. Compared to the tools I have been using to debur holes I like this method a lot better. Unless someone tells me this is a terrible idea I think I”ll stick with it.
I also started to countersink the stringers and ran into a couple issues. Some of the holes got countersunk way too far because the countersink cage adjustment came loose without me realizing it. I’ll make sure I tighten it better from now on and will also recheck it regularly while I use it.
The other problem I encountered was the countersink bit cutting it’s way through the part, starting to turn the hole into a line. I think this happened because the part is thin enough that the ends of the cutting parts of the countersink bit extend just far enough down the pilot of the bit to cut into the side of the hole. Here is a picture of the back side of one of the holes I messed up when I was countersinking it.
I decided to spend some time practicing on scrap parts of the same thickness and found that I’m not very good at stopping the bit from moving sideways through the part. Typically I use a 3-flute countersink bit but I do have one single flute bit from the tools I am borrowing from a friend. I decided to give this one a try to see if I had the same trouble with it, and I was happy to find out that it didn’t seem to want to start cutting sideways at all. Even pushing directly on the side of the tool while it was cutting didn’t cause it to cut sideways through the hole so I ordered one of these in the size I need.
I can still use the 3-flute bits that I have but I’ll need to back up the part with a block of wood or something with a hole for the pilot bit to extend into and clamp it in place so that the bit can’t move sideways at all. Or I could just put it in my drill press.